Types of Embroidery in Pakistani Dresses: 10 Styles, Designs & When to Wear Them
Embroidery has always been the heart of Pakistani clothing. From the delicate white threadwork of our grandmothers' kurtas to the glittering wedding joras of today, a good embroidered neckline can turn a simple suit into something special. However, not all embroidery is the same. Some is done by hand over many days, some by large multi-head machines in a few hours, and each style suits a different fabric, season and occasion. In this guide we explain the types of embroidery in Pakistani dresses, how each one is made and when to wear it, so you can choose your next embroidered dress design with confidence.
Hand Embroidery vs Machine Embroidery
Before we look at the styles, it helps to understand the two ways embroidery is made.
| Hand embroidery (adda work) | Machine embroidery | |
|---|---|---|
| How it's made | Artisans stitch by hand on a wooden frame called an adda | Computerised machines stitch a digital design |
| Look | Raised, rich, every piece slightly unique | Neat, even and exactly repeatable |
| Time | Days for one outfit | Hours for many outfits |
| Price | Higher | More affordable |
| Best for | Bridal, formal and party wear | Everyday, festive and seasonal collections |
Most Pakistani suits today use machine embroidery for the main pattern, with hand finishing on luxury pieces.
10 Types of Embroidery in Pakistani Dresses
1. Chikankari – soft, elegant threadwork
Chikankari is fine shadow-work embroidery, traditionally white thread on light fabric, with small floral motifs and tiny eyelet holes. Today it comes in tone-on-tone colours too. It looks graceful rather than flashy, which is why it is one of the most loved styles for Eid day, office wear and summer. Chikankari on lawn feels light and fresh, while chikankari on dhanak adds elegance to winter wear. Shop our chikankari lawn and chikankari dhanak suits.
2. Multi-Head Machine Embroidery – rich patterns on the whole suit
Multi-head machines stitch the same design on many shirt panels at once, with perfect accuracy. This is how full front panels, embroidered necklines, sleeves, daman borders and embroidered shawls are made for heavy embroidered Pakistani suits. It brings detailed designs at a fair price, and it is the backbone of most unstitched collections.
3. Sequins (Sequence Work) – festive sparkle
Small shiny discs are stitched into the embroidery to catch the light. Sequins turn a winter suit into a dawat or wedding outfit, and look especially beautiful on dark shades like maroon, navy and black. Choose sequin work on the neckline and dupatta if you want sparkle without too much weight.
4. Mirror Work (Shisha) – a classic from Sindh and Balochistan
Small round mirrors are held in place with colourful stitches. Mirror work is bold, playful and perfect for mehndi, Chand Raat and festive evenings. Browse our mirror embroidered suits.
5. Adda Work (Hand Embroidery) – the luxury touch
On an adda frame, skilled artisans stitch with thread, beads, pearls, sequins and metallic work by hand. Adda work is the most premium form of embroidery, used on bridal wear and formal outfits. Every piece takes time, and that care shows in the final finish. See our SF Couture party and formal wear.
6. Aari Work – fine chain stitches
Aari work uses a hooked needle to make fine chain stitches, often filled with beads or sequins. It creates detailed floral patterns on necklines and borders and is popular for formal suits.
7. Tilla, Zari and Dabka – metallic glamour
Tilla and zari use gold or silver metallic thread, while dabka uses coiled metal wire for a raised, textured look. Together they create the rich look of zardozi, the traditional embroidery of bridal joras. A touch of tilla on a lawn or cambric suit also gives an easy festive look.
8. Gota Work – ribbon embroidery for weddings
Gota is a gold or silver ribbon folded and stitched into patterns, often on dupatta borders, gharara and mehndi outfits. It is light but very festive.
9. Phulkari – Punjab's colourful flowers
Phulkari, meaning "flower work", is a bright, geometric embroidery from Punjab, traditionally done on dupattas. Today a phulkari dupatta is a favourite way to add colour to a plain suit.
10. Lace, Cutwork and Patches – modern detailing
Embroidered lace, cutwork borders and patches (embroidered pieces attached to necklines, sleeves and dupattas) add a modern finish to lawn and cotton suits. They are easy to style for everyday and office wear.
Which Embroidery for Which Occasion?
| Occasion | Best embroidery | Fabric |
|---|---|---|
| Everyday & office | Light chikankari, lace, small neckline embroidery | Lawn, cotton, cambric |
| Eid day | Chikankari, threadwork, light tilla | Premium lawn, cambric |
| Mehndi & Chand Raat | Mirror work, gota, phulkari | Cotton, chiffon |
| Dawat & winter events | Multi-head embroidery, sequins | Dhanak, velvet, khaddar |
| Wedding & walima | Adda work, aari, tilla, zardozi | Silk, chiffon, net, velvet |
How to Care for Embroidered Clothes
- Wash gently: hand wash or use a delicate cycle in cold water. Dry clean heavy sequin, adda and tilla work.
- Turn inside out before washing and ironing to protect the stitches.
- Iron on the reverse with a cloth on top, never directly on sequins or mirrors.
- Don't wring: press water out gently and dry in shade to keep colours bright.
- Store flat or on padded hangers wrapped in cotton, not plastic.
Inside AT80 Stitching Studio: How Our Embroidery Is Made
Unlike most online stores, we don't buy our embroidery from someone else. At AT80 Stitching Studio in Faisalabad we run two embroidery units with 28-head multi-head machines, one with 2 machines and one with 5, so we can produce everything from a few pieces to large collections. For fancy and party dresses we use single-head machines for finer, one-off designs, and our hand adda work set-up adds the luxury hand finish to formal and bridal pieces. Because our fabric is also printed and dyed at our own mill, Ameen Textile Mills, every step from fabric to final embroidery stays under one roof. That means better quality control and mill prices, not reseller prices.
Discover Embroidered Suits at AT Online Store
Explore our 3 piece embroidered suits, 2 piece embroidered suits, embroidered dhanak suits and velvet embroidered dresses. Free cash on delivery in Pakistan on orders of Rs. 2,000 and above, with shipping to the UK, USA and UAE.
FAQs
What is the difference between hand and machine embroidery?
Hand embroidery (adda work) is stitched by artisans on a frame and has a raised, unique finish, but takes days and costs more. Machine embroidery is stitched by computerised machines, giving neat, even designs at a more affordable price.
What is chikankari embroidery?
Chikankari is a delicate threadwork embroidery with small floral motifs and shadow work, traditionally white on light fabric. It is perfect for summer lawn, Eid day and elegant everyday wear.
Which embroidery is best for summer?
Light embroidery such as chikankari, threadwork and lace on lawn or cotton is best for summer, as it stays breathable. Save heavy sequins and adda work for evening events and winter.
